Rock you like a hurricane

April 30, 2006 – 8:12 PM – And down the stretch I come

I forgot to write about something fairly significant in my last post so I’ll do that now. The Marshall Islands is one of two nations (I think) that celebrate a very somber and chilling holiday, Nuclear Victims Remembrance Day. In Japan it is celebrated on August 6^th, the anniversary of the bombing of Hiroshima. In the Marshall Islands it is celebrated on March 1^st, the anniversary of the Bravo Shot, the largest nuclear weapon ever detonated. It was tested in Bikini Atoll but was so enormous, and the United States was so indifferent about ensuring optimum testing conditions, that the fallout from the test covered all of the Marshall Islands. To this day Rongelap Atoll is still uninhabitable and Utrik Atoll is “liveonable” but not “eatoffable.” I could go on for a long time about how much radiation the Marshall Islands has been exposed to, but I won’t.

During the commemoration activities for Nuclear Victims Remembrance Day, I found myself sitting and talking with two 60+ year old women from Rongelap Atoll. They were children when the Bravo Shot was detonated and forced them to evacuate to other atolls. Talking to them was both exciting and frightening. You have not lived until you’ve shaken the hand of a person who has been nuked.

I finally visited an outer island. Over Easter vacation I spent three days in Jaluit. Jaluit is the “most developed” of outer atolls, meaning it has power. Nevertheless it does not have phones, running water, any type of outdoor lighting, etc. About 1,000 people live on Jabor, the main island of Jaluit, and obviously fewer on the outer islands of Jaluit. Most of my time was spent on Jabor, though I did get a chance to visit two “true” outer islands. It’s a completely different world out there. The peace and quiet that exists on outer islands is inexplicable, as is the darkness that sets in after sunset. I also visit Imej, an outer island in Jaluit that was the base for Japanese military operations during WWII. Now it is home to a bunch of slowly decaying war relics, including abandoned concrete buildings and huge anti-aircraft guns. There’s also an enormous war ship that’s marooned on an island near Imej. And when I say enormous, I mean it. Looking at it from a plane, it’s clear that the ship is actually wider than the island. It’s quite a sight.

So one month of school remains. Teaching has proven to be a learning experience like none other. I highly encourage everyone to try teaching for a year. You will learn more about yourself and discover personal qualities that you never dreamed you had. That this year is concluding is both relieving and exciting. It is relieving because all the mistakes I have made will be swept under the carpet. It is exciting because that means I can learn from those mistakes in preparation for next year. Speaking of next year… (drum roll) … I’m coming back to the Marshall Islands. I will return as the academic and career counselor along with teaching a few classes on the side. Ironically this is what I have ideally envisioned since January, to be able to continue the programs I’ve created here and help students take the next step, all while still keeping a foot in the classroom. I’m very happy and totally looking forward to next year.

I’ll be in Chicago from 5/30 to 6/12. Plans include Field Museum, Cubs game, Sox game, Art Institute, and so much food at odd hours. Depot… (drool)